Retirement Calculator
Estimate your nest egg, the monthly income it can provide, and whether your savings last through retirement.
- Free, no account
- No watermark
- No usage limit
About the Retirement Calculator
Most free retirement calculators quit the day you retire. They project your savings up to your last day of work, show you a big number, and stop, which is the half that fools people. A projected 1.3 million looks like a fortune right up until you spread it across a 30 year retirement, adjust for inflation, and see what it pays you each month. This one carries on past that point, growing your money to retirement and then drawing that pile back down year by year, so you watch the whole arc: the balance rising while you save, then drawing down through retirement.
The field that makes it worth using is "desired income." Leave it blank and the tool shows the monthly income your savings can safely support. Fill it in with what you actually want to live on, and it flips to a verdict: on track, or your money runs out at 84. That second answer is the one most tools never give you, and it's the one that changes what you do next. Everything runs in your browser, nothing you type is uploaded.
How to use
- Enter your current age and the age you want to retire. The gap is your saving window, so 30 to 67 is 37 years of compounding. Quick buttons cover 62, 65, and 67.
- Enter your current savings. Add up everything earmarked for retirement, your 401k, an IRA or Roth, long term brokerage money. Leave out the emergency fund and cash you'll spend soon.
- Enter your monthly contribution and your expected return before retirement, and enter it before inflation, because this page takes inflation out on its own line. The 7 percent default sits below the long run stock average of roughly 10 percent a year, which makes it the cautious end of a stock-heavy assumption. The buttons flip between 5, 6, 7, and 10 so you can see how much that one guess moves everything.
- Read the top line, your projected savings at retirement, with the same figure in today's dollars right beneath it.
- Open "More options" for the pieces that turn an estimate into a plan: employer match, a yearly raise on your contribution, inflation, a gentler return during retirement, your Social Security, and the desired-income field.
- Watch the chart. It climbs through your working years, hits the dashed retirement line, then bends down as you spend. Hover any point to read the balance. Then copy a summary, download the year-by-year table, or press Share. The Share link carries the return and inflation assumptions on its own. Your ages, savings and contributions ride along only if you tick the box beside the button first, which is off every time you open the page.
The spend-down is the whole point
Saving is the easy half to model. Your balance compounds, your contributions stack on top, and a calculator that stops there hands you a satisfying number. The trouble starts once the paychecks stop. Now you're pulling money out instead of adding it, your return usually drops because most people shift toward bonds for safety, and inflation keeps pushing your cost of living up every single year. That is three forces working against the balance at the same time. A plan that looks healthy at the peak can quietly run dry at 80, and a calculator that ends the day you retire will never warn you.
This one runs that second phase month by month. It grows whatever is left at your during-retirement return, subtracts your spending, raises that spending with inflation, and repeats until you reach your planned age or the account hits zero. If it hits zero early, it tells you the exact age. That's the number worth knowing while you can still do something about it.
The desired-income field is where this becomes a real stress test. Blank, it answers "how much can I spend?" Filled in, it answers "does my plan survive?" Punch in the monthly income you want, in today's dollars, then drag your retirement age or your contribution around and watch the run-out age move. That moving number tells you more than any single static one.
Use two return rates, not one
Using the same aggressive return for your working years and your retirement years is one of the most common ways people quietly overstate how long their money lasts. Both boxes want the return before inflation, since inflation is a separate figure here and gets taken out of the answer for you. A stock-heavy portfolio has historically returned around 10 percent a year before inflation, so the 7 percent default is deliberately short of that. Once you retire you probably can't stomach that risk, a bad year right after you stop working does real damage because you're selling into the dip to eat, so most people move toward bonds and cash where a 5 percent figure is the more honest one. This calculator keeps the two rates separate on purpose. If your plan holds together at 5 percent, it won't fall apart when the market underdelivers. Set both to 10 and you have assumed the long run stock average holds straight through a retirement you are spending out of.
Inflation is the quieter one. At 3 percent, prices roughly double every 24 years, so a dollar of spending at 67 costs close to two dollars by 91. The tool reports your nest egg in today's dollars and grows your withdrawals with inflation as you age, so a big nominal number won't make you feel richer than you really are.
What the defaults actually show
Take the tool exactly as it loads. Age 30, retiring at 67, 20,000 saved, adding 500 a month. Returns of 7 percent while working, 5 percent once retired, inflation at 3 percent, planning through to 95.
By 67 the projection lands near 1.31 million. Impressive, until you strip out 37 years of inflation, which leaves about 440,000 in today's buying power. Of that total, you personally put in 222,000 of contributions on top of your 20,000 start. Everything else, over a million dollars, is growth. That gap between what you added and what you ended with is the whole case for starting early and leaving it alone.
Then the spend-down. Spread 440,000 of real savings across a 28 year retirement at 5 percent, and it supports roughly 1,700 a month in today's dollars, or about 1,470 under the stricter 4 percent rule. That's the jolt for a lot of people. A seven-figure projection can still come out to a fairly modest monthly income once inflation and a long retirement take their cut, which is exactly why looking only at the peak misleads. Add Social Security on top and the picture climbs fast.
One honest caveat. Treat this as a fast first look rather than a finished financial plan. It assumes steady returns rather than the market's real lurching path, and it doesn't model taxes, fees, or a precise Social Security benefit from your earnings record. For those, a fee-only advisor is the next step. What it does well is show you which lever moves the number most, in seconds.
Frequently asked questions
How much do I actually need to retire?
There's no magic number, but a decent shortcut is 25 times the yearly spending your savings alone have to cover, which is the flip side of the 4 percent rule. That word "alone" does a lot of work here. If you want 50,000 a year and Social Security covers 20,000, your portfolio only has to produce 30,000, so aim near 750,000 rather than the 1.25 million the raw rule implies. Enter your own figures and the calculator finds the target for your specific plan instead of a generic multiple.
What return rate should I use?
Enter it before inflation, which is the one thing worth getting right here, because a real return typed into a box that expects a nominal one is inflation counted twice and it makes your savings look about a third of what they are. For the years before retirement, 6 to 8 percent is a reasonable, moderately conservative range for a stock-heavy portfolio against a long run average nearer 10. For the retirement years, drop to 4 or 5 percent, since safer holdings return less. When you're unsure, pick the lower end. A plan that survives a cautious rate carries a margin the optimistic one doesn't.
How do a 401k and a Roth compare in here?
Enter your 401k balance as your savings and the tool projects it forward like any account. A traditional and a Roth grow on identical math, so the calculator treats them the same. The real difference is tax, which it doesn't model. A Roth is not taxed when you withdraw in retirement, but a traditional 401k is, so mentally treat your Roth dollars as worth a little more than the number on screen.
Should I include Social Security?
Yes. Social Security is built to replace roughly 40 percent of an average worker's income, so leaving it out makes your savings look far more inadequate than they are. Enter your estimated monthly benefit in today's dollars, which your Social Security statement lists, and the tool subtracts it from your target before working out what your savings have to produce.
Why does the order of good and bad years matter?
A smooth projection can't capture this. A steep market drop in your first few retirement years hurts far more than the same drop later, because you're selling investments to live on while they're down, and that money never recovers, which planners call sequence risk. Since this tool assumes a steady return, read a green result as "you're in the right neighborhood," not a promise, and keep a cash cushion for the early years.
Is anything I type saved or sent anywhere?
No. Every calculation happens in your browser, so your age, savings, and contributions never leave your device. There's no sign-up and nothing is stored on a server. The one exception is the Share link, and only if you ask for it. Left alone it carries the plain page address and the return assumptions, nothing about you. Tick the box beside Share and your figures go into the part of the address after the #, which your browser never sends to a server, so the link is still yours to hand on or not. Your entry does stay on your own device though, so the ages and rates you tuned are still set the next time you open the page.