Investment Return Calculator
Work out the return on an investment - final value, total gain, overall ROI %, and annualized return (CAGR) - with optional monthly contributions.
- Free, no account
- No watermark
- No usage limit
About the Investment Return Calculator
Put in what you invested, tell it the rate and how long you held, and this calculator hands back the whole return picture: final value, total gain, overall ROI as a percent, and the annualized return (the CAGR). Ten thousand dollars at a 7% annual return over ten years grows to about $19,671, a gain of $9,671, an ROI of 96.72%. Add a monthly contribution and the final value climbs from there. It's free, it runs entirely in your browser, and it recalculates the instant you touch any field.
A 96.72% return and a plain 7% a year are the same investment, just measured two different ways. The total is the headline number people quote. The per-year rate is the one that tells you whether the investment was actually any good. And that per-year rate is exactly what most free calculators get wrong the moment you add a monthly deposit, they report a flattering, inflated figure. This one reports what you actually earned.
How to use
- Enter your initial investment, the amount you put in at the start. It can be $0 if you're building the whole thing from monthly deposits instead of one lump sum.
- Add a monthly contribution if you make regular deposits. Leave it at 0 to measure a single lump sum, or enter something like $200 a month to model steady investing and see how much it lifts the final value.
- Set the annual return rate as a percent, like 7 or 10.5. Negative rates work too, so you can model a down year or an outright loss.
- Enter the years you held or plan to hold. This is the field that separates a good total return from a bad annual one.
- Read the results. Final value, total contributed, total gain, ROI, and annualized return all update live. Nudge the rate up a point and watch the whole thing move.
Why the per-year rate is the number that counts
ROI is a plain ratio: your gain against what you put in. Gain divided by cost, times 100. Put in $1,000, end with $1,300, and your ROI is 30%. Positive means you made money, negative means you're underwater. It's the universal yardstick because it doesn't care whether you bought a stock or a rental property, five hundred dollars or five million. It strips everything down to one question: how hard did each dollar work.
The catch is that ROI is completely blind to time. A 30% return is fantastic if it happened in a year and pretty ordinary if it took a decade to show up. That's the trap behind every "I doubled my money" story that quietly leaves out the years. Doubling your money is a 100% return, and stretched over 25 years that works out to about 2.8% annually, worse than a decent savings account in a good stretch.
Annualized return, the CAGR, fixes the blindness by expressing the total as a steady yearly pace. Two quick investments make the point. Investment A returns 50% over ten years. Investment B returns 30% over three. On raw ROI, A wins by a mile. Annualize them and it flips: A is about 4.1% a year, B is about 9.1%. B is more than twice as good year for year, A just had a longer stretch to pile up a bigger-looking total. Whenever someone quotes a total return with no time frame attached, ask for the years before you let it impress you.
Where free calculators cheat, and this one doesn't
Most people don't drop in a lump sum and wait. They feed money in a bit at a time, every paycheck or every month, for years. That regular investing is where a lot of return calculators quietly start lying to you.
Money you dropped in last month has barely started growing. A dollar from year one, though, has been compounding the entire time. So you can't just take your final value, divide by what you started with, and call the result your annual rate. That pretends every dollar had the full runway to compound, and it inflates the number, sometimes badly. Plenty of free tools do exactly that, because it's easy to code and it makes the return look better than it really was.
This one computes a money-weighted return instead, the same math an IRR uses. It solves for the single steady rate that actually reproduces your ending balance given when each dollar went in. Feed it a fixed 7% as a lump sum and it reports 7%. Add $100 a month at that same 7% and it still reports 7%, because that genuinely is the rate your money earned, with no bump from pretending your late deposits had years they never had. That honesty is the whole reason to use this over the first result in the search bar.
What the numbers don't include
Two honest caveats. First, every figure here is nominal, meaning it's raw dollar growth before inflation, fees, and taxes take their cut. A 7% return in a year of 3% inflation is closer to 4% in real buying power, and a 1% fund fee dragging on a growing balance for decades costs you far more than it looks. Subtract those in your head before you get too comfortable with a projection. Second, the tool assumes a fixed rate, because you have to assume something to plan with. No real investment returns the same tidy percent every year. A "7% average" is stitched together from years of +25% and years of -18%, so treat any projection here as a planning estimate, not a promise.
For a fast, honest read on a return you already have, or a fair comparison between two investments, this is the right tool. If you'd rather watch a balance build year by year at a set rate, the compound interest calculator frames the same engine that way. And if you need variable year-to-year returns, tax treatment, or a range of outcomes instead of a single line, reach for a full retirement planner. This one does clean math you can trust the shape of, which is what you want for a quick decision.
Frequently asked questions
What's actually a good annualized return?
Depends what you're holding. A broad U.S. stock index has averaged roughly 10% a year before inflation over long stretches, though that number hides some brutal single-year swings and isn't a promise. Bonds have historically run lower, often in the 3 to 5% range. High-yield savings drifts with interest rates. For long-term planning a lot of people pencil in a cautious 6 or 7% for stocks. When you're unsure, run the calculator twice, once optimistic and once conservative, and build your plans around the lower one.
Why does my ROI drop when I add monthly contributions?
Because ROI divides your gain by every dollar you put in, and each new deposit raises that bottom number. Your later contributions haven't had time to earn much yet, but they still count as money invested, so they pull the overall percentage down even while your final value and total gain go up. That isn't a bug, it just reflects that your freshest money hasn't grown yet, and the annualized figure is the fairer score to watch anyway.
Can I calculate a loss?
Yes. Enter a negative rate like -8 and the tool projects a shrinking balance, a negative gain, and a negative ROI shown in red. Investments lose money sometimes, and a calculator that can't show that is no use for honest planning. A flat 0% year and a gain get handled the same clean way as a loss.
Does this account for inflation?
No, every number here is nominal. For a real return you subtract inflation from your annualized figure, and to get that inflation number, the long-run U.S. average has run around 3%, with the current rate published monthly by the Bureau of Labor Statistics as the CPI. One nuance worth knowing: the exact formula divides the two rates rather than subtracting, so subtraction stays close enough at low inflation but starts to overstate what you actually kept once inflation runs high.
Isn't CAGR just the average of my yearly returns?
No, and the difference bites people. If an investment drops 50% one year and gains 50% the next, the simple average of those two years is 0%, but you're actually down 25%, so your real compounded rate is negative. Averaging yearly returns ignores that a loss hurts more than an equal gain helps. CAGR measures the true compounded result, which is why it's the figure worth comparing across investments.
Does anything I type get sent anywhere?
No. Every calculation happens locally in your browser with no network calls, so nothing you enter is uploaded, logged, or stored. It keeps working offline once the page has loaded, and refreshing the page simply resets the fields.